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After lifting a Jeep's suspension by 3 to 4 inches
normally you start to get what people often refer
to as "death wobble" or in other words
bad vibrations since you have raised your drive
train components without moving your axle so now
your rear driveshaft is pulled out of the yoke so
the connection between the two is stressed. You
have two options to fix this, either install a
drop transfer case kit or a short shaft kit. A
drop transfer case kit does exactly that, it drops
the cross member which in turn drops the transfer
case leaving you with less clearance, which is the
opposite of what we are trying to achieve. So the
answer to fixing "death wobble" while
beefing up your NP231 and turning your rear output
to a fixed yoke is a Short Shaft Kit. Better known
as a Slip Yoke Eliminator or SYE for short. An SYE
changes your transfer case from a slip yoke to a
fixed yoke which means your driveshaft bolts to
the rear of your transfer case instead of sliding
into it. Besides solving vibes the advantage of
having a fixed yoke is on the trail with a slip
yoke if you break anything that would case your
driveshaft to slip out of the transfer case you
loose all your fluid which could potentially be a
large problem. |
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By:
Keith
Ubben
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Transfer
case before install.
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The
Bayou Geep kit comes with everything you will need
to do this conversion and best of all great
service. Being our first transfer case
modification we had a couple problems that the
owner Glenn was more than willing to help us
solve.
The kit comes with:
1 Heavy Duty Mainshaft
Fixed Yoke Housing and yoke
Gears
Bearings
Snap rings, shims, o-rings, bolts, washers.
A CV style rear drive shaft will also have to be
purchased to run a short shaft kit. |
Taking out the transfer case would be the easier
route to go once you of course you get it out
but dealing with taking it out was not something
we wanted to do and knowing most people that
install this at home wouldn't either we left it
in. Installing this kit with the transfer case
not out did not add any extra steps to
installing it, just a little uncomfortable.
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We
began by unbolting the cross member bolts and
transmission mount bolts in the center of the
cross member. Before taking the bolts fully out
we put a jack under the engine oil pan because
after taking the cross member off everything
will drop because the cross member is what is
holding everything in place. With the engine
supported it was time to remove the cross member
from the Jeep.
Next, the front driveshaft was disconnected from
the front yoke on the transfer case by taking
the four bolts off on the u-joint holders. After
disconnecting the driveshaft put tape around the
caps on the u-joint so they do not come off and
all your needle bearings fall out. Now using a
very large breaker bar the nut was taken off the
front yoke, this will require a lot of pressure
so don't be surprised by that.
Next the two drain plugs on the bottom of the
transfer case were unbolted and all fluid
drained. Using the same procedure to disconnect
our front driveshaft we disconnected the rear
driveshaft, however this driveshaft will need to
be totally removed from the Jeep, so after it is
unbolted slide it out of the transfer case. The
housing is next to go, the bolts holding the
slip yoke to the rear housing were removed. The
speedo cable was then unbolted from the rear
housing, unscrewed out and then removed from the
housing. We had to use a snap ring pliers to get
the snap ring off the shaft to get the next
housing off. After that is off simply unbolt the
bolts holding the rear housing to the transfer
case and slide it off the shaft. The oil pump
will want to come with it so you might have to
pull the tube off of it. Make sure to keep these
parts very clean at all times and do not get
dirt into the transfer case.
On some Jeeps the shift rod has to be cut to fit
inside of the new housing which you will install
later. So to test we put our new housing on and
found we needed to cut a bit off it before it
would fit. Using a dremel tool we cut, refitted,
and it went flush against the case.
The case cover is next to go so once unbolted we
used a flathead screwdriver to pried at the two
pry points, one at the bottom right and the
other at the middle left of the case, to get the
case half off. Oil might come out now so make
sure nothing is in the way. You will have to
work the case half off while making sure that
the inside assembly does not fall out. Once the
case half was off we took out the entire
assembly at once and put it on clean newspaper.
The gear assembly had to be stripped now in
order to transfer all the gears onto the new
main heavy duty shaft.
First we took off the large gear that goes over
the others. Once that is off we slide the front
gears off, then using the snap ring pliers we
had to take a snap ring off and then the rest of
the gears come off. Next we reassembled it just
like we took it apart only reverse onto the new
heavy duty output shaft. There is a new snap
ring in this kit to replace to old one. Once the
assembly is back together it is time to install
it back in the transfer case. There is a slotted
metal tab in the case that the the lip on the
shift rod holder slips into. Once the new shaft
and gears are in put your chain around it and
the front shaft and reinstall into the case.
Page
Two of Install >>>
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